Grabbing Stamford by the horns

What do the Georgian town of Stamford in Lincolnshire and Pamplona in Spain have in common? The running of the bulls, of course (who knew)!

Folklore states that the tradition of bull running began during the reign of King John in the 10^th century, when the 5^th Early of Surrey looked out of his castle window and saw two bulls fighting in the meadows, one of which broke loose and began marauding through the town, tossing people aside as it did so.

The earl is said to have joined the chaos on horseback and so enjoyed the experience that he gave the meadow to local butchers, on the condition that they held a running of the bulls every year.

In following years, after the bull was caught, it was killed and butchered, with its meat given to the poor. Thankfully, the good people of Stamford recognised bull running it as inhumane in the 1800s and banned it.

This was just one of the intriguing nuggets of history tossed to us by our hugely knowledgeable guide on one of the Stamford Town Guided Tours. Roll over, Pamplona!

I’ve known Stamford since I was a child, living just 10 miles or so away, and while it’s always been good for a night out, I’d never have thought of making a weekend of it, until I was offered a stay at the newly-refurbished William Cecil Hotel – and grabbed it by the horns, so to speak.

Think timber frame buildings, little shops tucked away down alleyways, cobbled streets, old coaching inns and fab little eateries.

Head north on the A1 towards the more well-known tourist hotspots of the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales and you might not give Stamford in Lincolnshire a second glance. But what a treasure you’d be missing.

Stamford is today probably most well known for being home to the Defender Burghley Horse Trials, the world-class equestrian sporting event in the rolling parkland of the Burghley Estate, where the well-heeled shop, sip and revel in the splendours of British country life.

There is more to this beautifully preserved Georgian town than this international three-day event. So much more, even if the days of bull running are long gone.

Indeed, so perfectly preserved it is that local people have grown accustomed to seeing film crews in the town, as it’s been used as a filmset for many period dramas and historical movies, including Pride and Prejudice, The Crown and Middlemarch.

One thing I do know is that Stamford is darn handsome. It was actually the first conservation area to be designated in England, with over 600 listed buildings. That’s more than half of the entire county of Lincolnshire itself.

What is there to do in Stamford?

Stamford is home to the magnificent Elizabethan treasure mansion that is Burghley House, built by the First Minister of Elizabeth, after whom the newly-refurbished William Cecil Hotel is named.

The prominent memory I have of Burghley House, which I visited as a child, is of the cavernous kitchen, with turtle skulls on the wall from all those soups, and the ‘Heaven and Hell’ staircase, whose artwork I used to find quite scary, but now I find it fascinating! The kitchen is still vast and cavernous and the art jaw-dropping.

The enchanting Garden of Surprises at Burghley is inspired by the Elizabethan fascination with astrology, astronomy and classical civilisations. Based on original designs by the 1^st Lord Burghley, the garden is hidden from the outside, waiting to reveal its surprises to those who enter. It doesn’t under-deliver, although parents are reminded that water features are also artwork and not for their offspring to bathe in!

For me, the highlight of the entire Burghley visit was the Sculpture Park – an open-air gallery, with works on loan from more than 30 different artists, which are displayed alongside sweeping borders, broad drifts of wildflowers and naturalistic planting. Views across Capability Brown’s great lake are stunning. Be careful, though, the gates close promptly and I’ve been locked in before (and had to climb over the wall to get out).

When booking, remember that Burghley House (entry £20 for adults and £9 for children – 10% cheaper if booked online) is closed from November to March. Burghley Park is open all year round and the Garden of Surprises (advance tickets £9 or £7.50 for kids) is open every day until November, after which it is open only at weekends.

Where to stay in Stamford

The lovely, historic William Cecil Hotel in Stamford (where I used to wait tables when I was younger, when it was called Lady Anne’s), has undergone a significant refurbishment, sitting quietly on the edge of Burghley Park and a gentle stroll into town.

The rooms have also had an upgrade. One has a roll top bath in the room and the honeymoon suite (the hotel has recently won an award for weddings) has a double shower and very pretty private garden. There’s ample parking too, which is a godsend for Stamford.

Rooms have character and there has been some thoughtful detail, like gorgeous, luxury toiletries (always a good sign), old fashioned radio on quietly when you check in and homemade macarons, with a little welcome note.

Downstairs is the neighbourhood bistro – Milly’s (Cecil’s wife was named Mildred) – where they serve a mean breakfast. I love an hotel with a varied breakfast menu and the William Cecil delivers. If there are kippers on the menu, it goes straight to the top of my list and the William Cecil has.

If you book for lunch or dinner, I recommend the scallops, which were among the best I’ve ever had. Residents can book a Pashley bike (the ones with the basket on the front) from the hotel and cycle up to Burghley House or have a picnic in the grounds.

Rooms start at £135 or you can book a great value ‘historic’ stay for two, which includes a three-course dinner, bed and breakfast, with bottle of house wine, which starts at £175. There’s also the Burghley Break, which includes dinner, bed, breakfast and access to the great house, starting at £214 for two people.

Where to eat in Stamford

There are several charming, independent restaurants in Stamford, but the place with the best atmosphere is surely The Bull and Swan, just along the road from the William Cecil.

We simply loved dining amongst the raised vegetable beds in the Potting Shed, a heated outdoor structure to the rear of the pub, reached through the archway. Despite it being a day in the dismal summer of 2024, it was warm and cosy in there – and beautifully decorated.

It’s goes by the name of The Potting Shed in the warmer months, but turns into the Ski Chalet once it turns colder. Think vegetable garden tours by the team from Burghley Park in the summer, while sipping a spritz, and gluhwein and cosying up under blankets in the colder months.

The food and service were impeccable and we loved being able to have our dogs with us at dinner too (The William Cecil is also dog-friendly). Especially memorable on the menu was the grilled watermelon salad with rainbow chard, feta and pine nuts (£18).

Located at one end of Stamford’s High Street is the super-tasty Sushi and Salad, which serves Instagram-worthy food alongside highly moreish cocktails (there’s live music every Wednesday). The menu is vast and there’s a little too much to choose from, but every mouthful is impeccable. You don’t have to head to London for top sushi. It’s also found in Lincolnshire!

Book a weekend stay at The William Cecil to make sure you don’t miss out on the unforgettable Sunday lunch sharing platter served in Milly’s Bistro (£29.50 for two courses), while listening to live jazz.

I’m somewhat of a connoisseur of the Yorkshire pudding (my own take some beating) but Milly’s, which are stuffed with shredded beef, are out of this world.

Take a detour off the A1 next time you’re passing and, as the sign into town says, stay a while among its ancient charm. I’m pretty sure you won’t be disappointed.